Major online sales events like Cyber Monday weekend aren’t just wrecking your budget—they’re quietly clogging up the auto repair world too. With articles like “17 Cyber Monday Weekend Deals That Will Make You Forget Black Friday Even Happened” trending right now, people are loading up on TVs, gaming rigs, and tool sets. What most drivers don’t realize is that the same shipping bottlenecks slowing those packages can delay parts deliveries to local repair shops as well.
When carriers are slammed moving electronics and holiday deals, everything from brake pads to alternators can get stuck in the same pipeline. That means longer wait times for repairs, jam-packed shop schedules, and more days without your car. The good news: there are several high-impact repairs and maintenance tasks you can safely handle yourself, so you’re less dependent on shop availability right when everyone else is lining up.
Below are 5 step-by-step DIY jobs that can keep your car reliable while parts, shops, and delivery trucks are busy dealing with the Cyber Monday fallout.
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DIY Task 1: Change Your Engine Air Filter to Save Fuel and Power
A clogged air filter makes your engine work harder and can hurt fuel economy—exactly what you don’t want when shipping delays could slow bigger repairs.
Tools & materials:
- New engine air filter (check your owner’s manual or parts site)
- Screwdriver (if your airbox has screws)
- Shop towel
Steps:
**Locate the airbox**
Pop your hood and look for a plastic box with clips or screws, connected to a big intake tube. It’s usually near the front or side of the engine bay.
**Inspect the housing**
Unclip or unscrew the top of the box. Carefully lift it and note how the old filter is oriented. Snap a quick phone pic for reference.
**Remove the old filter**
Pull the filter straight up. If dirt falls into the airbox, wipe it out gently with a shop towel—don’t push debris into the intake.
- **Compare old vs. new**
Make sure the new filter matches in size and shape. If your old filter is dark, dusty, or has leaves/insects stuck in it, it’s overdue.
**Install the new filter**
Set it in the same orientation as the old one. Ensure the rubber sealing edge sits flat all the way around.
**Reassemble the airbox**
Refit the cover, making sure no wires or hoses are pinched. Reinstall clips or screws snugly, but don’t overtighten.
**Reset calendar reminder**
Set a reminder to check it again in 10–15k miles or per your manual. Regular swaps mean fewer surprises that require a shop visit.
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DIY Task 2: Replace Worn Wiper Blades Before Winter Weather Hits
Shipping delays and shop backlogs often show up right when rainy or snowy weather starts. Don’t wait in line for something this simple.
Tools & materials:
- New wiper blades (size-specific for driver, passenger, and rear if equipped)
- Small flathead screwdriver (maybe)
Steps:
**Check your sizes**
Look up blade lengths by vehicle year/make/model online or in a parts store catalog. Front left/right can be different.
**Lift the wiper arms**
Gently pull each wiper arm away from the windshield until it locks in the upright position. Be careful: if it snaps back, it can crack the glass.
**Release the old blade**
Most use a hook-style arm. Press the tab where the blade connects, then slide the blade downward off the hook. If it’s stubborn, gently pry the tab with a small screwdriver.
**Match the adapters**
Many modern blades come with multiple adapters. Confirm the one installed on your new blade matches your old blade’s connection.
**Install the new blade**
Slide the hook through the opening in the adapter and pull until you hear or feel a click. It should be firmly locked with no wobble.
**Lower gently and test**
Carefully lower the arms back onto the glass. Turn on the washer and wipers to confirm smooth, streak-free operation and no odd noises.
**Keep the old ones as spares (if not totally shot)**
Store in the trunk. Even worn blades are better than nothing if a new one fails and you can’t get replacements quickly.
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DIY Task 3: Swap Your Cabin Air Filter to Improve Defrost and Airflow
With delivery trucks busy moving Cyber Monday electronics, waiting on HVAC diagnoses at a shop can take days. Many “weak heater” or “poor defrost” complaints are actually just clogged cabin filters.
Tools & materials:
- New cabin air filter
- Flashlight
- Phillips screwdriver (maybe)
Steps:
**Find the filter location**
Most are behind the glove box or under the cowl at the base of the windshield. Check your owner’s manual or a quick online search for your model.
**Empty the glove box (if applicable)**
If it’s behind the glove box, remove your stuff so nothing falls out during the process.
**Drop the glove box**
Open it fully. There may be side stops you gently squeeze inward to let it swing further down. Some cars have a small damper arm to unclip.
**Locate and open the filter door**
Look for a rectangular plastic cover with small tabs. Press the tabs and pull the cover off.
**Remove the old filter**
Note the airflow direction arrow before pulling it out. If you see leaves, dust, or a gray/black filter, it’s time.
**Insert the new filter**
Align the airflow arrow to match the old one (usually pointing down into the blower area). Slide it in carefully without crushing the pleats.
**Reassemble everything**
Snap the cover back on, raise the glove box, reconnect any damper arm, and return your items. You should notice better airflow and quicker defrost.
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DIY Task 4: Check and Top Off Essential Fluids Safely
If shops are booked out because of parts delays and seasonal rush, having your fluids in good shape can buy you time and prevent minor issues from turning into breakdowns.
Tools & materials:
- Clean rags or paper towels
- Funnel
- Correct fluids: engine oil, coolant, washer fluid, power steering/brake fluid if applicable (always match spec in your manual)
Steps:
**Park on level ground and let the engine cool**
This is crucial for accurate readings and safety—especially for coolant.
**Engine oil check**
- Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert fully, then pull again. - Oil should be between the MIN and MAX marks and a clear amber or light brown. - If it’s low, add small amounts via the oil fill cap, rechecking as you go. Don’t overfill.
**Coolant check**
- Never open a hot radiator cap. Instead, check the translucent overflow tank. - Fluid level should be between “LOW” and “FULL” when cold. - If low, top off with the correct coolant mix listed in your manual. If you see rust, sludge, or oily film, skip DIY and schedule a shop appointment.
**Brake fluid check**
- Locate the brake fluid reservoir (usually at the rear of the engine bay on the driver side). - The level should sit between MIN and MAX. Don’t top off unless you know why it’s low—dropping level can indicate pad wear or a leak and may need professional inspection.
**Power steering fluid (if not electric assist)**
- Check the dipstick or markings on the reservoir. - If low, top up with the specified fluid type only. Very low fluid could mean a leak.
**Washer fluid**
- Fill to the top—simple, safe, and vital for visibility during winter storms when everyone is on the road and shops are swamped.
**Log your observations**
Snap a photo of each reservoir and level. If anything looks off, you’ll have evidence to show a mechanic when you can get an appointment.
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DIY Task 5: Inspect and Clean Battery Terminals to Prevent No-Starts
Holiday shipping surges and busy tow companies mean if your car doesn’t start, you might wait longer than usual for help. A huge share of no-starts are caused by weak batteries or corroded terminals—something you can often prevent.
Tools & materials:
- Gloves and safety glasses
- 10mm wrench or socket (common battery clamp size)
- Battery terminal brush or old toothbrush
- Baking soda and water mix (for heavy corrosion)
- Dielectric grease or petroleum jelly (light coat only)
Steps:
**Safety first**
Turn the engine off, remove the key, and keep metal tools away from both terminals at once. Wear eye protection.
**Inspect the battery**
Look for white/green/blue crust on the terminals, cracked casing, bulging sides, or leaking fluid. If the case is damaged or leaking, do NOT DIY—replace the battery immediately at a shop or parts store.
**Disconnect the cables (negative first)**
Loosen the negative (–) terminal clamp and remove it from the post, then do the same with the positive (+). Tuck them aside so they don’t snap back.
**Clean the terminals and clamps**
- For light corrosion: scrub with a terminal brush or toothbrush until metal is shiny. - For heavy buildup: mix baking soda and water into a paste, apply to corrosion, let it fizz, then scrub and wipe clean. Don’t let the mix get inside vent caps.
**Rinse and dry**
Wipe everything with a clean, damp rag to remove residue, then dry completely.
**Apply a thin protective layer**
Smear a light coat of dielectric grease or petroleum jelly on the posts and inside the clamps to slow future corrosion. Don’t glob it on—just enough to coat.
**Reconnect (positive first)**
Attach and tighten the positive (+) clamp, then the negative (–). Wiggle each to confirm they’re snug. A solid connection means fewer no-start surprises when tow trucks and shops are already overloaded.
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Conclusion
With Cyber Monday weekend pushing carriers and shops to their limits, it’s not just TVs and gaming rigs stuck in transit—your car parts can be, too. Instead of waiting helplessly for an opening at a busy repair shop, taking on a few practical DIY tasks now can keep your vehicle reliable while the system catches up.
None of these jobs require a fully equipped garage, and most use parts you can still get quickly from local auto stores even when online shipments are slow. Handle what you safely can—filters, fluids, wipers, and battery care—so that if you do need a professional for bigger work, your car is already in the best shape possible to make it there on your schedule, not the shipping company’s.
Key Takeaway
The most important thing to remember from this article is that this information can change how you think about Auto Repair.
