If your social feed is full of “malfunctioning cats” and other funny glitch memes, you’re already fluent in how the internet talks about things that don’t quite work right. Bored Panda’s viral series “What’s Wrong With My Cat?” is blowing up again right now—photos of cats sitting like people, staring at walls, or randomly freezing mid‑jump. It’s hilarious when it’s a pet. It’s a lot less funny when your dishwasher or fridge suddenly starts acting the same way.
Appliances “malfunction” in very similar ways: weird noises, strange positions (a refrigerator that’s not level), random shutdowns, or doing absolutely nothing when you press a button. Instead of panic‑buying a new unit, there are a handful of safe, practical checks you can do before calling for help.
Below are five step‑by‑step repair tips for common appliance “glitches” that DIYers can tackle with basic tools. Think of this as a guide to fixing the “What’s wrong with my… dishwasher?” version of those cat posts—just with less fur and more multimeter.
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1. Dishwasher Won’t Drain: How To Clear the “Cat-in-the-Pipe” Clog
A non‑draining dishwasher is basically a cat refusing to move from a doorway: everything backs up behind it. This is one of the most common DIY‑fixable problems, especially on popular brands like Bosch, Whirlpool, GE, LG, and Samsung.
What you’ll need:
- Sponge or towels
- Small cup or turkey baster
- Phillips screwdriver
- Soft brush or old toothbrush
- Pliers (optional)
Steps:
**Kill the power and check for standing water**
- Turn off the dishwasher at the breaker or unplug it. - Open the door and remove the bottom rack. - Use a cup or turkey baster to remove standing water into a bucket, then soak up the rest with towels.
**Clean the filter and sump area**
- At the bottom, twist and lift out the filter assembly (most modern machines have one). - Rinse the filter under warm water and scrub off gunk with a soft brush. - Look down into the sump (the hole under the filter). Remove any visible food, glass, or labels.
**Inspect the drain pump area**
- Many models have a small cover or grate over the drain pump inlet. Remove it if possible. - Feel gently with your fingers for seeds, bones, or plastic pieces that could jam the impeller. - If you feel resistance, don’t force it; you may need to access the pump from below (usually a job for a pro).
**Check the drain hose and garbage disposal connection**
- Under the sink, find the dishwasher drain hose. Make sure it isn’t kinked or crushed. - If it connects to a garbage disposal, and the disposal is new, confirm the knockout plug has been removed (this is a classic installer miss). - Loosen the hose clamp, remove the hose, and check for clogs at the inlet. Flush with hot water.
**Run a short test cycle**
- Reinstall the filter and any covers. - Restore power and run a short cycle, listening during the drain portion. - If it now drains and no error codes appear, you’re done. If it hums but doesn’t drain, the drain pump itself may be failing and likely needs replacement.
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2. Fridge Running Warm but Freezer Is Fine: Fixing the “Confused Cat” Fridge
When the freezer is ice‑cold but the fridge section is warm, your appliance is basically “malfunctioning” like a cat staring at a blank wall—it’s powered on, but not doing the right thing. This often affects side‑by‑side and French‑door units from brands like Frigidaire, Samsung, LG, GE, and Whirlpool.
What you’ll need:
- Flashlight
- Phillips screwdriver or nut driver
- Hair dryer (optional, for defrost help)
- Thin brush or vacuum with brush attachment
Steps:
**Listen and look for airflow in the fridge section**
- Open the fridge door and locate the vent(s) where cold air enters from the freezer. - You should feel a gentle flow of cool air when the compressor is running. - If you don’t, the air damper may be stuck or the evaporator fan may not be moving air.
**Check for blocked vents and overpacking**
- Move items away from the back wall and vents. Jammed‑full shelves can block airflow. - Avoid stacking tall items directly in front of vents. - Leave at least a couple of inches between food and the back wall.
**Clean the condenser coils**
- Unplug the fridge or switch off the breaker. - Pull the unit away from the wall (careful with water lines). - Use a brush or vacuum to clean dust off the condenser coils (behind or underneath, depending on model). - Dirty coils make the system overwork and can cause warm temps in the fridge compartment.
**Inspect the freezer for frost build‑up**
- Open the freezer and check the back panel inside. - If you see a thick sheet of frost or snow, the defrost system might be failing, blocking airflow. - As a temporary DIY measure, you can unplug the fridge and leave doors open for 12–24 hours to fully defrost (use towels). - Do *not* chip ice with tools—you’ll risk puncturing a coil.
**Test after a full defrost and reset**
- After defrosting and coil cleaning, plug the fridge back in. - Set temps to manufacturer recommendations (usually around 37–40°F / 3–4°C for fridge, 0°F / –18°C for freezer). - Give it 24 hours and monitor with an appliance thermometer in both compartments. - If the problem returns quickly or the evaporator fan never runs, the fan, damper, or defrost components may need professional diagnosis.
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3. Electric Oven That Won’t Heat Properly: When “Bake” Becomes “Barely Warm”
If your cookies are coming out half‑raw or your sheet pan is only hot on one side, your oven is “malfunctioning” in the same unpredictable way as those viral cat photos. Electric ranges from Samsung, GE, Whirlpool, LG, and others often suffer from worn heating elements or faulty sensors that DIYers can pinpoint.
What you’ll need:
- Screwdriver
- Flashlight
- Multimeter (optional but very helpful)
- Oven thermometer
Steps:
**Visually inspect the bake and broil elements**
- Turn off power at the breaker and let the oven cool. - Open the oven and locate the bake element (bottom) and broil element (top). - Look for blisters, breaks, dark spots, or areas where the element has burned through. - Any visible damage means the element needs replacing.
**Test whether one element is working**
- Turn power back on. - Set the oven to “Bake” at 350°F/175°C and watch through the door: the bottom element should glow red after a few minutes. - Then set it to “Broil” and check if the top element glows. - If one never glows, that’s your likely culprit.
**Replace a faulty bake or broil element (basic method)**
- Kill power at the breaker again. - Remove the screws securing the element to the back wall. - Gently pull the element forward a few inches to expose the wire terminals. - Carefully disconnect the wires (note their position or take a photo). - Install the new OEM‑style element, reconnect wires, and secure it with screws.
**Check the oven temperature calibration**
- Place an oven thermometer in the center of the middle rack. - Set the oven to 350°F/175°C, allow 20–30 minutes, and note the temperature. - Repeat a few times; average the readings. - If it’s consistently off by more than 20–25°F, use the control panel’s calibration feature (on many modern ovens) to adjust. Consult your manual for exact steps.
**Consider the temperature sensor if issues persist**
- If both elements get hot and calibration doesn’t help, the temperature sensor (probe at the back wall) may be faulty. - With power off, you can remove and test it with a multimeter—most should read about 1,080 ohms at room temperature (check the spec for your brand). - Replacing the sensor is often a straightforward unscrew‑and‑swap job, but if wiring is buried or readings are strange, it’s time for a pro.
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4. Washer Won’t Spin or Drain: Taming the “Flop Cat” Washing Machine
Top‑load and front‑load washers from Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, and others often “give up” mid‑cycle—just like a cat flopping on the floor and refusing to move. When your washer won’t spin or drain, a few simple checks can save you from an unnecessary service call.
What you’ll need:
- Small container or shallow pan
- Old towels
- Pliers (for hose clamps)
- Phillips screwdriver
Steps:
**Check for unbalanced loads and lid/door issues**
- For top‑loaders: open the lid and redistribute heavy items around the agitator. Try a spin‑only cycle. - For front‑loaders: make sure the door is fully latched and the rubber boot isn’t obstructing it. - A faulty lid switch or door lock can also stop spin; if you have to slam the lid to get it to run, the switch may be wearing out.
**Clean the drain pump filter (front‑loaders, especially LG/Samsung)**
- Unplug the washer. - At the bottom front, look for a small access panel. Open it. - Place a shallow pan or towels underneath. - Slowly open the drain cap or hose and let water out. - Remove the filter and clean out coins, hairpins, lint, or small clothing items (baby socks are repeat offenders).
**Inspect the drain hose for kinks and clogs**
- Go behind the washer and check the drain hose for bends or sharp kinks. - Remove the hose from the standpipe or sink connection and inspect for blockages. - Flush the hose with water if you suspect a clog.
**Listen to the drain pump**
- Plug the washer back in and start a drain or spin cycle. - Listen closely: - A humming sound with no water movement can mean the pump is jammed. - Loud grinding or rattling suggests debris in the pump or a failing pump. - If you’re comfortable, you can access the pump from the front or rear (depending on model) and check for obstructions with the power off.
**Run an empty rinse/spin test**
- After clearing the filter and hose, run the machine empty on a rinse/spin cycle. - If it completes normally, try a small test load. - If it still refuses to spin or shows an error code, the issue may be the pump motor, lid switch, door lock, or control board—jobs that often require parts ordering and deeper diagnostics.
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5. Dryer Taking Forever to Dry: Clearing the “Sleep Mode” Lint Bottleneck
When your dryer takes two or three cycles to dry a normal load, it’s not always the heating element. More often, it’s a lint‑choked airflow path—like a cat wedged across a hallway, blocking traffic. Both gas and electric dryers from brands like Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, GE, and Maytag benefit hugely from basic vent maintenance.
What you’ll need:
- Vacuum with hose and brush attachment
- Dryer vent cleaning brush or long flexible brush
- Screwdriver or nut driver
- Flashlight
Steps:
**Clean the lint screen and housing**
- Remove the lint screen and clean it thoroughly. - Use a vacuum with a crevice tool or brush to clean inside the lint filter housing as far as you can reach. - If you use dryer sheets, occasionally wash the lint screen with warm soapy water and dry it to remove fabric softener film.
**Inspect the vent hose behind the dryer**
- Unplug the dryer (and turn off gas supply for gas models). - Pull the dryer gently away from the wall. - Check the vent hose for crushing, kinks, or breaks. - Shorten overly long hoses and avoid sharp bends if possible.
**Clean the vent hose and wall duct**
- Detach the vent hose from both the dryer and the wall. - Use a vent brush or vacuum to remove lint from the hose. - Reach into the wall duct and remove visible lint. A vent cleaning kit can extend several feet into the duct.
**Check the exterior vent hood**
- Go outside and find the dryer vent outlet. - Make sure the flap opens freely when you push it and isn’t blocked by lint, nests, or debris. - Clean the area thoroughly; reduced airflow here is a major fire hazard and a leading cause of long dry times.
**Test airflow and performance**
- Reconnect the vent hose securely and move the dryer back into place without crushing the hose. - Plug the dryer in (and restore gas if applicable). - Start a timed heat cycle and go outside to feel the airflow from the vent—it should be strong and steady. - Run a small load and see if dry times improve. If not, the problem may be a failing heating element, thermostat, or moisture sensor.
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Conclusion
The internet loves watching cats glitch out in “What’s Wrong With My Cat?” posts because it’s harmless and funny. When your appliances start acting the same way—refusing to drain, half‑heating, or randomly giving up mid‑cycle—the stakes are higher, but the pattern is similar: something small is blocking, misreading, or failing.
In many cases, a careful DIYer with basic tools can clear filters, clean vents, inspect elements, and restore normal operation without touching anything high‑voltage or gas‑related. The key is staying safe: always kill power before opening panels, avoid prying at sealed systems, and stop if you’re unsure.
Fix what you can, document what you can’t, and if the problem goes beyond clogs, visible parts, or simple replacements, bring in a pro. That way, the only “malfunctioning” things in your life stay on your social feed—not in your kitchen or laundry room.
Key Takeaway
The most important thing to remember from this article is that this information can change how you think about Appliances.
