Some repairs feel overwhelming until you see them broken into clear, doable steps. With a bit of planning, a few basic tools, and realistic expectations, you can handle a surprising number of home fixes yourself—and know when it’s smarter to stop and call a pro.
Below are five common repairs laid out step by step, with safety notes so you don’t get in over your head.
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Fix 1: A Dripping Bathroom Faucet That Wastes Water
A slow drip can waste gallons of water a day and add up on your bill. Most bathroom faucets leak because of worn-out cartridges or washers.
Tools & materials: Adjustable wrench, Phillips/flathead screwdrivers, replacement cartridge or O‑rings/washers (match to brand/model), plumber’s grease, towel.
Step-by-step:
**Shut off the water supply**
Look under the sink for the hot and cold shutoff valves. Turn them clockwise until snug. Turn the faucet on to ensure water is off and to relieve pressure.
**Plug the drain and prep the work area**
Use a sink plug or a rag in the drain so small screws don’t disappear. Lay a towel in the sink to protect the surface and catch drips.
**Remove the handle and trim**
Pry off decorative caps gently with a small flathead screwdriver. Unscrew the handle screw, then pull the handle off. Remove any decorative collars or retaining nuts you see.
**Take out the cartridge or stem**
Use an adjustable wrench or pliers to loosen the retaining nut. Gently pull the cartridge or stem straight up. Note orientation (a quick phone photo helps).
**Match and replace the parts**
Take the old cartridge or stem to a hardware store to match exactly, or use manufacturer info online. If it’s a washer-type faucet, replace the washer and O‑rings. Lightly coat new O‑rings with plumber’s grease.
**Reassemble carefully**
Insert the new cartridge in the same orientation. Tighten the retaining nut snugly, but don’t overtighten. Reinstall trim and handle.
**Turn water back on and test**
Slowly open the shutoff valves. Turn the faucet on and off several times. Check for drips around the handle and spout. If dripping continues, double-check you used the correct part and it’s fully seated.
When to stop and call a pro:
If your shutoff valves don’t fully close, are corroded, or you see signs of water damage in the cabinet, get a plumber involved before something worse develops.
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Fix 2: Replacing a Broken Wall Switch Safely
A flaky light switch (flickering, warm to the touch, or not working at all) is both annoying and potentially unsafe. Replacing a standard single‑pole switch is straightforward if you follow basic electrical safety.
Tools & materials: Non-contact voltage tester, flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, needle‑nose pliers, replacement switch (same type and rating), electrical tape.
Safety first: If you’re uncomfortable with electrical work, don’t push past your comfort level. There’s no shame in hiring an electrician.
Step-by-step:
**Turn off the correct breaker**
At your electrical panel, flip off the breaker labeled for that room or circuit. If labeling is unclear, turn off the main breaker for extra safety (and use a flashlight as needed).
**Confirm the power is off**
Remove the switch cover plate and use a non-contact voltage tester near the switch screws and wires. Only proceed when the tester shows no power.
**Remove the old switch**
Unscrew the switch from the electrical box and gently pull it out. Note where each wire connects (take a photo). Typically, a single‑pole switch has one hot wire in and one switched hot wire out, plus a ground.
**Disconnect wires one at a time**
Loosen terminal screws and gently remove wires, or release from backstab holes if applicable (avoid backstabs on the new switch—use screws instead). Keep track of which wire is which.
**Prepare the new switch connections**
Make small J‑shaped hooks at wire ends with needle‑nose pliers if needed. Attach wires under the screw terminals in the same positions as before (line/hot to common, load to the other brass screw, ground to green). Tighten screws firmly.
**Position switch and secure it**
Gently push wires back into the box without crimping. Align the switch straight and snug it down with mounting screws. Reinstall the cover plate.
**Restore power and test**
Turn the breaker back on. Test the switch several times. Check that the switch and cover stay cool during use over the next few days.
When to stop and call a pro:
If you see aluminum wiring, burnt insulation, melted parts, or more wires than a simple switch should have (e.g., multi‑way circuitry you don’t understand), get an electrician.
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Fix 3: Patching a Small Drywall Hole So It Actually Blends In
From door knobs to wall anchors, small holes in drywall are common—and very repairable. The key is using the right method based on the hole size.
Tools & materials: Utility knife, putty knife, sandpaper (120–220 grit), joint compound or spackle, self‑adhesive patch (for larger holes), primer, touch‑up paint.
Step-by-step for nail/screw holes (up to ~¼")
**Clean and slightly widen the hole**
Use the tip of a utility knife to remove loose paper and debris. Lightly “cone” the hole so the opening is slightly wider than the back—this helps compound grab.
**Apply spackle or lightweight joint compound**
Press compound into the hole using a putty knife, then scrape flush with the wall surface. Remove as much excess as possible.
**Let dry and sand lightly**
Once dry, gently sand until smooth and level with surrounding wall. Wipe dust away with a damp cloth.
**Prime and paint**
Prime the patch (especially on bare drywall or compound) to prevent flashing. Then apply matching paint, feathering outward.
Step-by-step for larger holes (~½" to 4")
**Square up the damage**
Cut a clean rectangle or square around the damaged area with a utility knife or drywall saw.
**Apply a self‑adhesive patch**
Center an adhesive mesh drywall patch over the hole, pressing firmly to bond.
**Cover with joint compound**
Spread an even layer of compound over the patch, extending a couple inches beyond edges. Keep it thin on the outer edges to blend.
**Build with 2–3 coats**
After each coat dries, lightly sand and apply another, each one slightly wider than the last. Aim for a smooth, feathered transition.
**Prime and paint**
Prime the entire repair area, then paint the full wall section if possible for best blending.
When to stop and call a pro:
If the hole exposes wiring, plumbing, or structural damage, or you notice cracks that keep returning, you may have a bigger underlying issue.
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Fix 4: A Toilet That Keeps Running After You Flush
A running toilet is usually caused by a worn flapper, misadjusted float, or leaky fill valve. These are inexpensive fixes that can dramatically cut water waste.
Tools & materials: Adjustable wrench (sometimes optional), replacement flapper (and possibly fill valve), sponge or towel.
Step-by-step:
**Remove tank lid and observe**
Flush the toilet and watch what happens inside. Note if the flapper doesn’t seal, the float sits too high, or water flows continuously into the overflow tube.
**Shut off water and drain the tank**
Close the shutoff valve behind the toilet. Flush to empty most water. Use a sponge or towel to soak up remaining water if you’re replacing parts below waterline.
**Replace the flapper (most common fix)**
Disconnect the flapper chain from the flush lever. Unhook the flapper from the overflow tube arms. Install the new flapper, attach the chain leaving a bit of slack (not tight, not drooping excessively).
**Adjust the float level**
If water was running into the overflow tube, lower the water level. On modern toilets with a float cup, squeeze the clip and slide the cup down the fill valve shaft. On older ball floats, turn the adjustment screw or gently bend the arm down.
**Test refill and seal**
Turn water back on, let the tank fill. Mark the water line with a pencil and come back after 5–10 minutes. If the level hasn’t dropped and there’s no sound of running water, your fix worked.
**Consider replacing the fill valve if needed**
If the valve doesn’t shut off reliably, replace it: remove the old one (nut under the tank), install the new valve to manufacturer specs, adjust height and refill tube, then test.
When to stop and call a pro:
If tightening or replacing standard tank parts doesn’t stop water from appearing around the toilet base or on the floor, you might have a wax ring or supply line problem that needs professional attention.
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Fix 5: A Sticking Interior Door That Won’t Close Smoothly
Seasonal humidity, settling, and loose hinges can turn an easy-closing door into a stubborn one. Often you can solve it without heavy carpentry.
Tools & materials: Screwdriver, wood shims or thin cardboard, pencil, sandpaper or hand plane, utility knife, wood filler (if needed).
Step-by-step:
**Find exactly where it sticks**
Close the door slowly and watch where it rubs the frame. Look for fresh scrape marks on the edge or jamb. Mark those spots lightly with a pencil.
**Tighten hinge screws first**
Open the door and tighten all hinge screws on both the door and frame. Loose screws can cause sagging that creates rubbing.
**Shim a loose hinge if needed**
If tightening doesn’t help and there’s a visible gap at one hinge, remove that hinge leaf from the frame. Insert a thin cardboard shim behind it, then reinstall and tighten. This can subtly reposition the door.
**Try the door again**
Close the door and see if the sticking improves. Sometimes hinge tightening and shimming alone solve the problem without removing any wood.
**Mark and plane/sand only where needed**
If it still sticks, mark the contact points clearly. Take the door off its hinges if necessary. Gently plane or sand the marked areas, removing a small amount of material at a time. Check your progress often.
**Seal exposed wood**
Once the door closes smoothly with a small, even gap, seal any freshly exposed edges with paint or a clear finish to reduce future swelling from moisture.
When to stop and call a pro:
If the doorframe itself looks out of square, the wall is cracked, or the sticking is sudden and severe (especially in a load‑bearing wall), get a contractor to check for structural movement.
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Conclusion
Most everyday home repairs come down to:
- Breaking the job into clear, safe steps
- Using the right part instead of forcing a “close enough” fix
- Knowing your limits—and stopping if something looks unsafe or more complex than expected
Start with small, low‑risk repairs like patching drywall or fixing a running toilet. As you build skills and confidence, you’ll be able to solve more issues yourself, save money, and keep your home in better shape year‑round.
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Sources
- [U.S. Environmental Protection Agency – Fixing Leaks at Home](https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week) - Explains how small plumbing leaks (like dripping faucets and running toilets) waste water and offers basic guidance on repairs
- [Family Handyman – How to Fix a Leaky Bathroom Faucet](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-fix-a-leaky-bathroom-faucet/) - Step-by-step faucet repair methods with photos for different faucet types
- [Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) – Electrical Safety](https://www.osha.gov/electrical-safety) - Provides foundational guidelines for safe electrical work in residential settings
- [USGS – Water Science School: How Much Water Does a Leaky Faucet Waste?](https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/drip-calculator-how-much-water-does-leaky-faucet-waste) - Quantifies the impact of dripping faucets and running toilets on water usage
- [This Old House – How to Patch a Hole in Drywall](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/walls/21016423/how-to-patch-drywall) - Detailed drywall repair techniques for different hole sizes and conditions
Key Takeaway
The most important thing to remember from this article is that this information can change how you think about Home Repairs.
