Everyday Fix-It Skills for a More Reliable Home

Below are five step‑by‑step repairs that DIY‑minded homeowners can take on safely and confidently, even without a workshop full of tools.

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Fix a Door That Won’t Latch Properly

A door that won’t latch can be more than annoying—it can affect security and privacy. Fortunately, you can usually solve it with just a screwdriver and a bit of patience.

1. **Diagnose the problem.** Close the door slowly and watch where the latch contacts the strike plate on the door frame. If it rubs on the top or bottom, or misses the opening entirely, that’s your alignment issue. Also check for loose hinges or visibly sagging wood.
2. **Tighten the hinge screws.** Open the door and tighten all hinge screws with a screwdriver. Focus on the top hinge first; that’s usually where sagging starts. If the screws spin without grabbing, replace them with slightly longer wood screws to bite into the stud behind the frame.
3. **Adjust the strike plate position.** If tightening hinges isn’t enough, remove the strike plate from the frame. Hold it in place where the latch naturally hits, mark the new position with a pencil, and chisel the mortise (the recess in the wood) slightly to let the plate sit in the new spot. Reattach the plate with screws.
4. **Enlarge the opening if needed.** If the misalignment is minor, you can sometimes avoid moving the plate. Remove it and file the inside of the strike plate opening slightly with a metal file so the latch can enter fully, then reinstall.
5. **Test and fine‑tune.** Close and open the door several times to confirm the latch engages smoothly without forcing it. If it’s still tight, make very small adjustments—either a bit more filing or another minor shift of the strike plate—rather than one big change that creates a new problem.

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Stop a Toilet That Runs Constantly

A running toilet wastes water, adds to your utility bill, and is one of the simplest plumbing fixes you can learn. Most issues come from worn or misadjusted internal parts in the tank, not from the toilet bowl itself.

1. **Remove the tank lid and observe.** Gently lift off the tank lid and set it somewhere safe. Flush the toilet and watch inside the tank. Note how the flapper, fill valve, and float behave. The two most common problems are a leaky flapper or water level set too high.
2. **Check and clean the flapper.** Turn off the shutoff valve behind the toilet and flush to empty most of the water. Inspect the flapper (the rubber piece over the drain at the bottom). If it’s warped, cracked, or coated with mineral buildup, replace it. To clean, wipe it and the seat beneath with a cloth; to replace, unhook it from the overflow tube and attach the new one according to package directions.
3. **Adjust the chain length.** The chain between the handle and flapper should be slightly slack when the flapper is closed—too tight and the flapper can’t seal, too loose and the handle won’t lift it fully. Adjust the link position so there’s just a small amount of slack.
4. **Set the correct water level.** Turn the water back on. The water should stop about 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube. For a float‑cup style fill valve, adjust the screw on top or slide the clip to move the float lower. For a float ball, gently bend the arm down so the valve shuts off sooner.
5. **Replace the fill valve if necessary.** If water continues to flow into the overflow tube no matter how you adjust the float, the fill valve may have failed. Shut off the water, disconnect the supply line, remove the old valve, and install a replacement according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This is still a basic DIY job and usually requires only an adjustable wrench and a bit of thread sealing tape.

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Repair a Wall Anchor That Pulled Out of Drywall

Shelves, towel bars, and curtain rods that rip out of the wall are common in busy homes. Instead of just shoving the same screw back into the damaged hole, repair the drywall properly and upgrade the anchor so the fix actually lasts.

1. **Remove loose material.** Take out the screw and old anchor. Use a utility knife to cut away torn paper and crumbling gypsum around the hole so you’re working with solid material. Dust out the cavity with a small brush or a dry cloth.
2. **Choose the right anchor type.** For light loads (small picture frames), simple plastic expansion anchors are fine. For medium to heavy loads (towel bars, small shelves), use metal or heavy‑duty self‑drilling drywall anchors, or toggle bolts for very heavy items.
3. **Patch oversize damage if needed.** If the old hole is much larger than the anchor you plan to use, apply a small amount of drywall patching compound or joint compound to fill the area. Let it dry thoroughly, sand it flat, and then drill a new pilot hole in the patched area once hardened.
4. **Install the new anchor correctly.** For self‑drilling anchors, press the tip into the drywall and screw it in until flush with the wall surface—do not overtighten or you’ll strip the drywall. For toggle bolts, drill the specified hole size, insert the folded toggle through the wall, and tighten while gently pulling outward so the wings grip the back of the drywall.
5. **Reattach the fixture and test.** Align your bracket, bar, or shelf with the installed anchors, insert the screws, and tighten until snug. Give the fixture a firm but controlled tug to confirm it’s solid. If there’s any movement, back off and check whether the anchor is rotating or pulling out before adding more force.

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Quiet a Squeaky Floorboard from Above

Squeaky floors can make your home sound older than it is. While accessing the joists from below is ideal, you can often quiet squeaks from above without ripping up flooring, especially under carpet or exposed wood.

1. **Locate the squeak precisely.** Walk across the area slowly and listen for the exact spot. Mark the noisy area with painter’s tape or a pencil. You’re usually hearing wood rubbing against a nail, screw, or another board.
2. **For carpeted floors: use breakaway screws.** Specialized squeak‑repair kits include screws that fasten the subfloor to the joist through the carpet, then snap off below the surface. Find a joist using a stud finder along the squeaky path, drive the screw through the carpet at that point, and use the included tool to snap the head off flush below the surface.
3. **For exposed wood floors: predrill and screw.** Identify the joist line beneath the squeaky board using a stud finder or by measuring from a known joist. Predrill a small pilot hole at a slight angle through the squeaky board into the joist, then drive a trim head or finish screw until it’s just below the surface. Fill the tiny divot with wood filler matched to your floor.
4. **Use shims if there’s movement between boards.** If two boards are rubbing at a seam, gently tap a thin wood shim into the gap with a bit of wood glue. Don’t force it—too much pressure can make the squeak worse or crack the flooring. Trim any excess shim with a utility knife and touch up the seam if needed.
5. **Test and adjust.** Walk the area again. You may need to add a second screw along the joist or another shim at a slightly different spot. Work gradually; a few well‑placed fasteners are better than a scatter of random screws that could damage wiring or pipes below.

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Replace a Dead Light Switch Safely

A light switch that stops working, feels hot, or crackles when used should be replaced immediately. If you’re comfortable turning off power and working methodically, this is a straightforward, high‑impact repair.

1. **Turn off power at the breaker.** Don’t trust just the wall switch. Go to your electrical panel, find the correct circuit breaker (often labeled by room), and switch it off. Back at the switch, try turning lights on to confirm nothing works.
2. **Remove the cover plate and inspect.** Use a screwdriver to remove the screws holding the cover plate and switch to the electrical box. Gently pull the switch out by the mounting ears, not the wires. If you see burned or melted plastic, that confirms it needs replacement.
3. **Take a clear reference photo.** Before disconnecting anything, take a close, well‑lit photo of how each wire is attached and where it’s positioned. This makes reconnecting the new switch much easier and safer.
4. **Disconnect and prepare the wires.** Loosen the terminal screws holding the wires and gently unhook them. If the switch uses back‑stabbed (push‑in) wire connections, use a small screwdriver or release tab to free the wires. If any copper is damaged or corroded, trim back the end and strip about 1/2 inch of insulation.
5. **Install the new switch.** Match the new switch type (single‑pole for most basic applications) and rating (amperage and voltage) to the original. Connect the wires to the screw terminals as shown in your reference photo, tightening them firmly. Carefully fold the wires back into the box, secure the switch with its mounting screws, reinstall the cover plate, and turn the breaker back on. Test the switch several times to confirm smooth, reliable operation.

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Conclusion

Confident home repair isn’t about doing everything yourself—it’s about recognizing where you can safely step in and prevent small problems from becoming costly emergencies. Fixing a misaligned door, a wasteful toilet, a failed wall anchor, a squeaky floor, or a failing light switch are all achievable projects with basic tools and a methodical approach.

As you tackle these repairs, you’ll build skills that carry over to other tasks around the house and reduce your dependence on last‑minute service calls. Start with the project that feels least intimidating, work slowly, and always prioritize safety—especially around plumbing and electrical work. Over time, these everyday fixes add up to a home that feels sturdier, quieter, and more under your control.

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Sources

• [U.S. Department of Energy – WaterSense: Fix a Leak](https://www.epa.gov/watersense/fix-leak-week) – Covers how small plumbing leaks (including toilets) waste water and basic strategies to address them.
• [Family Handyman – How to Fix a Door That Won’t Latch](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-fix-a-door-that-wont-latch/) – Step‑by‑step guidance and illustrations for adjusting doors and strike plates.
• [Lowe’s – How to Fix a Running Toilet](https://www.lowes.com/n/how-to/fix-running-toilet) – Practical instructions on diagnosing flapper, float, and fill‑valve problems.
• [This Old House – How to Stop Floor Squeaks](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/flooring/21018954/how-to-stop-squeaks) – Explains causes of squeaky floors and multiple repair methods from above and below.
• [Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) – Working Safely With Electricity](https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/publications/osha3075.pdf) – Official safety guidance for anyone working around residential electrical systems.